Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- maxnc [2017/05/10 09:49] – sdh7
+++ maxnc [2018/03/11 22:12] – sdh7
@@ Line 20: / Line 20: @@
 ===Caveats:===
-  *endstops are currently non-functional, so automatic homing does not work.
+  *endstops are currently non-functional, so automatic homing does not work, and is only sort of useful anyway.
-  *For some reason (EM Interference, probably), turning the spindle off/on will sometimes cause the Arduino to reset. This usually happens when turning the spindle off. With the back cover attached this happens less frequently.
+  *For some reason (EM Interference, probably), turning the spindle off/on will sometimes cause the Arduino to reset. This usually happens when turning the spindle off. With the back cover attached this happens less frequently. More shielding? Ground the spindle motor?
+  *Y-axis weirdness: The Y-axis has been troublesome lately. To fix it we've replaced the motor-leadscrew coupler, and added a (3D printed) bearing block at the end of the axis. It needed a little tightening after replacement, but ran a 2 1/2 hour job after doing that.
 ===Proposed Upgrades===
   *Coolant drip pump
-  *Vacuum for dust collection
+  *Vacuum for dust collection (metal vacuuming may be tough?)
   *Air blowing for chip clearing
-  *Upgrade electronics to a 4-axis capable board so we can use the 4th axis (should probably also get an appropriate tail stock as well). Something like a TinyG or Smoothie-compatible ARM solution would work well.
+  *Upgrade electronics to a 4-axis capable board so we can use the 4th axis (should probably also get an appropriate chuck & tail stock as well). Something like a TinyG or Smoothie-compatible ARM solution would work well.
+  *Re-do bearing X&Y bearing blocks in aluminum?
 ===Instructions for use:===
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 Second: Your first job should probably not be done in metal. Try using wood, plastic or foam first to get a feel for how the machine works.
-Generating Gcode: The easiest way to generate Gcode for this is with Inventables' [[http://easel.inventables.com|Easel]] (it will run on the CNC computer, but WebGL rendering of what the final product will look like isn't possible because the machine is too old... I'm just happy it worked at all)
+Generating Gcode: The easiest way to generate Gcode for this is with Inventables' [[http://easel.inventables.com|Easel]]. On the laptop usually attached to the machine, or any modern computer running Windows or macOS, Easel also works as a simple and effective gcode sender.
-On the machine itself, we have Inkscape with gcodetools (probably better for more precision work) and MakerCAM (easy for beginners, but Flash-based and not very precise). We also now have bCNC installed as a Gcode sender/editor/CAM suite.
+On the machine we also now have bCNC installed as a Gcode sender/editor/CAM suite.
-Zeroing: In bCNC, use the arrow keys to move X&Y, and Page Up/Page Down to move Z. You can set the step size in the software - 1mm is good for big moves, and .1mm when closing in on zero. Get your endmill to within a few thousandths of the material (use a sheet of paper as a feeler gauge, and you're there when moving it is "tight"). Click "reset zero" and the work position will be set to zero.
+Zeroing: In bCNC, use the arrow keys to move X&Y, and Page Up/Page Down to move Z. You can set the step size in the software - 1mm is good for big moves, and .1mm when closing in on zero. Get your endmill to within a few thousandths of the material (use a sheet of paper as a feeler gauge, and you're there when moving it is "tight"). Click "reset zero" and the work position will be set to zero. In Easel, the procedure is similar, but pgup/down don't work- just click the buttons.
 Run your job. Attend the work. If cutting metal, apply cutting fluid every few passes. If something goes terribly wrong, hit the emergency stop.