=====MaxNC=====

^Name| MaxNC 10|
^Owner | Makers' Alliance|
^Location | Wood Shop|
^Training needed| yes|
^Hackable| no|
^Model| MaxNC 10 CL|
^Serial| Serial Number|
^Arrival Date| 2013|
^Working| yes|
^Contact| Sam Harmon |

Current Status: Mostly Functional

This is a donated MaxNC 10 CL that has been hacked into functionality. MaxNC electronics have been replaced by an Arduino/gShield combo running GRBL (so it's no longer Closed Loop). All of the stepper motors on the X/Y/Z axes have been replaced. Technically the machine has a 4th (rotary) axis, but the current electronics do not support it.

===Current Status:=== 
  *90+% usable at this point, but be careful.(see Caveats)
  *Could use some signage in its new home in the wood shop
  *Need to set up the computer next to it to operate it, or BYO laptop...

===Caveats:=== 
  *endstops are currently non-functional, so automatic homing does not work, and is only sort of useful anyway.
  *For some reason (EM Interference, probably), turning the spindle off/on will sometimes cause the Arduino to reset. This usually happens when turning the spindle off. With the back cover attached this happens less frequently. More shielding? Ground the spindle motor? 
  *Y-axis weirdness: The Y-axis has been troublesome lately. To fix it we've replaced the motor-leadscrew coupler, and added a (3D printed) bearing block at the end of the axis. It needed a little tightening after replacement, but ran a 2 1/2 hour job after doing that.

===Proposed Upgrades===
  *Coolant drip pump
  *Vacuum for dust collection (metal vacuuming may be tough?)
  *Air blowing for chip clearing
  *Upgrade electronics to a 4-axis capable board so we can use the 4th axis (should probably also get an appropriate chuck & tail stock as well). Something like a TinyG or Smoothie-compatible ARM solution would work well.
  *Re-do bearing X&Y bearing blocks in aluminum?

===Suggested Upgrades/Modifications/etc.===
  * figure out spindle RPMs based on pulley configurations (need a tachometer, I guess?)

===Instructions for use:===
First: You should have some in-person training before using this tool. Wear safety glasses if the box is open.

Second: Your first job should probably not be done in metal. Try using wood, plastic or foam first to get a feel for how the machine works.

Generating Gcode: The easiest way to generate Gcode for this is with Inventables' [[http://easel.inventables.com|Easel]]. On the laptop usually attached to the machine, or any modern computer running Windows or macOS, Easel also works as a simple and effective gcode sender.

On the machine we also now have bCNC installed as a Gcode sender/editor/CAM suite.
 
Zeroing: In bCNC, use the arrow keys to move X&Y, and Page Up/Page Down to move Z. You can set the step size in the software - 1mm is good for big moves, and .1mm when closing in on zero. Get your endmill to within a few thousandths of the material (use a sheet of paper as a feeler gauge, and you're there when moving it is "tight"). Click "reset zero" and the work position will be set to zero. In Easel, the procedure is similar, but pgup/down don't work- just click the buttons.

Run your job. Attend the work. If cutting metal, apply cutting fluid every few passes. If something goes terribly wrong, hit the emergency stop & abort on the sender.

===Suggested usage (set these things in your Gcode or via Easel or whatever)===
  *Keep feed rates relatively low for now (~10 inches per minute seems ok for aluminum)
  *Keep your depth of cut light for aluminum (had success at .003 per pass - slow, but got the job done)


{{tag>[needs_minor_repair]}}