Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- shapeoko [2017/01/08 20:10] – sdh7
+++ shapeoko [2018/07/27 15:50] (current) – sdh7
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
+=====Shapeoko=====
+^Name| Shapeoko|
+^Owner | Sam Harmon |
+^Location | Electronics |
+^Training needed| yes |
+^Hackable| no|
+^Model| Shapeoko 1|
+^Serial| N/A|
+^Arrival Date| 2015|
+^Working| yes|
+^Contact| Sam Harmon|
+Current Status: Taken home (too loud to use in the current environment)
 In 2013, Sam purchased a Shapeoko kit. Made good progress at first, and then it languished in his garage for a few years.
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 Electronics: Arduino Uno with gShield. Computer is a BeagleBone Black.
-Current status: Preliminarily Functional.
 Software: We are now using bCNC as the Gcode sender. It also has some CAM functionality.
-===To-Do List===
+Another option for design/Gcode generation is Inventables' [[http://easel.inventables.com|Easel]] software, which is made (partially) with the Shapeoko in mind. Design your part, export the Gcode, and load it into bCNC. Just tell it you're using a Shapeoko 1, and keep your design to about 6" (160-ish mm) square.
-Base: Drill holes in base to mount to whatever bench it will sit on
-Calibration: seems ok at the moment. Maybe double check with a dial indicator?
+===To-Do List===
+  *Electronics needs to be better organized in a box with bulkhead connectors, etc.
+  *Base: Drill holes in base to mount to whatever bench it will sit on
+  *Calibration: (1/17/17- X&Y were determined to be out of whack. Ran a 50mm square job and found it produced a 45-ish mm square. Read more documentation and found steps/mm for MXL belts should be 43.74 vs. the 40 it was set to. 50mm square carved correctly on the second run) X&Y good. Z TBD- need to design a job to mill out pockets of particular depths and check with a depth gauge. Also tricky to quantify since current workholding uses fairly spongy double-sided tape.
+  *Workholding- refer to [[http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Workholding|Shapeoko's wiki]] for more information/ideas- looking at  1/2" thick spoilboard with lots of threaded inserts at the moment.
+  *Limit Switches: Use mechanical switches for X-/X+/Y-/Y+/Z+. Maybe build/buy a touch plate setup for Z-? Printed the base of a touch plate, and Steve will cut out a brass disc for it on his CNC router. (X- & Y- switches are installed on 3D printed mounts. Additional T-nuts are needed to install X+ & Y+ switches.)
-Limit Switches: Use mechanical switches for X-/X+/Y-/Y+/Z+. Maybe build/buy a touch plate setup for Z-? Printed the base of a touch plate, and Steve will cut out a brass disc for it on his CNC router.
+{{tag>[needs_calibration]}}
-(X- & Y- switches are installed on 3D printed mounts. Additional T-nuts are needed to install X+ & Y+ switches.)