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| shapeoko [2016/11/20 21:07] – sdh7 | shapeoko [2018/07/27 15:50] (current) – sdh7 |
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| | =====Shapeoko===== |
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| | ^Name| Shapeoko| |
| | ^Owner | Sam Harmon | |
| | ^Location | Electronics | |
| | ^Training needed| yes | |
| | ^Hackable| no| |
| | ^Model| Shapeoko 1| |
| | ^Serial| N/A| |
| | ^Arrival Date| 2015| |
| | ^Working| yes| |
| | ^Contact| Sam Harmon| |
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| | Current Status: Taken home (too loud to use in the current environment) |
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| In 2013, Sam purchased a Shapeoko kit. Made good progress at first, and then it languished in his garage for a few years. | In 2013, Sam purchased a Shapeoko kit. Made good progress at first, and then it languished in his garage for a few years. |
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| Electronics: Arduino Uno with gShield. Computer is a BeagleBone Black. | Electronics: Arduino Uno with gShield. Computer is a BeagleBone Black. |
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| Current status: Starting to function. Needs more calibration, and limit switches, spindle control, etc. | Software: We are now using bCNC as the Gcode sender. It also has some CAM functionality. |
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| | Another option for design/Gcode generation is Inventables' [[http://easel.inventables.com|Easel]] software, which is made (partially) with the Shapeoko in mind. Design your part, export the Gcode, and load it into bCNC. Just tell it you're using a Shapeoko 1, and keep your design to about 6" (160-ish mm) square. |
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| ===To-Do List=== | ===To-Do List=== |
| Base: Using a 1/4"(3/16"? not sure- need to measure) steel sheet pulled from the [[FDM2000]]. Needs to have holes drilled/tapped to connect machine to base- figure out appropriate size for holes & get fasteners. Additionally, drill holes in base to mount to whatever bench it will sit on | *Electronics needs to be better organized in a box with bulkhead connectors, etc. |
| | *Base: Drill holes in base to mount to whatever bench it will sit on |
| Calibration: seems ok at the moment. Maybe double check with a dial indicator? | *Calibration: (1/17/17- X&Y were determined to be out of whack. Ran a 50mm square job and found it produced a 45-ish mm square. Read more documentation and found steps/mm for MXL belts should be 43.74 vs. the 40 it was set to. 50mm square carved correctly on the second run) X&Y good. Z TBD- need to design a job to mill out pockets of particular depths and check with a depth gauge. Also tricky to quantify since current workholding uses fairly spongy double-sided tape. |
| | *Workholding- refer to [[http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Workholding|Shapeoko's wiki]] for more information/ideas- looking at 1/2" thick spoilboard with lots of threaded inserts at the moment. |
| Limit Switches: Use mechanical switches for X-/X+/Y-/Y+/Z+. Maybe build/buy a touch plate setup for Z-? Printed the base of a touch plate, and Steve will cut out a brass disc for it on his CNC router. | *Limit Switches: Use mechanical switches for X-/X+/Y-/Y+/Z+. Maybe build/buy a touch plate setup for Z-? Printed the base of a touch plate, and Steve will cut out a brass disc for it on his CNC router. (X- & Y- switches are installed on 3D printed mounts. Additional T-nuts are needed to install X+ & Y+ switches.) |
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| Spindle control: <del>Set it up like the [[MaxNC]], with gshield driving a transistor, that in turn drives a relay that powers the spindle.</del> Going to get a dedicated relay box for this. $20 on Amazon. | {{tag>[needs_calibration]}} |
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| <del>Software: Install ChiliPeppr and necessary add-ons to make it usable.</del> Chilipeppr is basically unusable on a Beaglebone Black. Needs a "real" computer with decent speed/GPU/Internet access to really function. | |
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